Sunday, September 13, 2009

All Around the North with Mom






Besides going to Nazareth, Mom and I drove all around the North and the Golan Heights. We looked up places in the book as we went and stopped there if they sounded interesting. Sometimes it's nice how small Israel is. Just north of Nazareth is Tzippori, the site of an ancient city said to be the home of Anna and Joachim, the Virgin Mary's parents. It was also the birth place of the Mishnah, Jewish oral law, developed in the 2nd century C.E. We walked around the crusader fortress that is still there and saw the amazing mosaics from the Byzantines.

We also drove all around the Kinneret, Sea of Galilee. We stayed for two nights on a kibbutz right on the north-western shore that Mom had stayed at on her trip. One of the nights, we went in search of a place to eat where we could watch the sunset over the water. After an awesome windy drive, Mom let me drive, and a couple wrong turns that simply resulted in additional stunning views, we found the restaurant Mom was sure existed. It was definitely worth the drive and the food was delicious.

Pictures:
1st: The view from the top of the crusader fortress in Tzippori
2nd: A mosque in the Golan, no longer in use, note the bullet holes
3rd: Mom enjoying the sunset over the Kinneret
4th: Beautiful
5th: It's important to stick to the trails when trekking around the Golan


Monday, September 7, 2009

Bethlehem


I had been wanting to see Bethlehem (literally House of Bread) for a long time but it is not so easy to get to. It is in a part of the West Bank that is entirely Palestinian controlled. Israeli citizens are not allowed to go there because they are not protected by the government or the IDF. None of my pals who have made Aaliyah would be able to get in with their Israeli IDs, nor would my Israeli friends who have cars. Mom and I had no trouble with our American passports and our rental car.

We headed straight to the Church of the Nativity where we quickly, and reluctantly, acquired a guide. We soon realized that it was great to have him showing us around. The Church is divided between Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, and Armenian. It is the oldest continuously operating church, from the mid 300's C.E. Our guide helped us bypass the crowds on large tours and took us straight down to the Grotto of the Nativity. It consists of the supposed place where Mary gave birth to Jesus, as well as the manger she then placed him in, and the spot the three wise men put their gifts. We stood down there alone for quite a while before the groups joined us. It was absolutely amazing. It is so powerful to visit such holy sites, regardless of the religion they belong to. There is an energy that people pour into them that I can't help being moved by, even if it is not my religion.

I am really happy that Mom was up for going on this adventure. I know I say it a lot, but it was one of the most interesting experiences I've had. We drove 10 minutes south of Jerusalem and it was like we were in a totally different country. As soon as you make it through the check point, which feels like entering a high security prison, all the signs switch from being in Hebrew, Arabic and English, to just being in Arabic and English. The inside of the wall itself was awesome. It is covered in really beautiful graffiti. It was pretty foreign to have Arab police everywhere. The only ones we interacted with were very welcoming and friendly. Getting back into Jerusalem took longer than entering the West Bank. Everyone has to get out of the car and approach a soldier at a booth who checks their documents. You then drive your car up to another soldier who checks it if he feels the need. We got through this easily too. Two cars in front of us was an Arab family who were not permitted and had to turn around.

Pictures:
1st: Warning on the Jerusalem side
2nd: The wall from the Jerusalem side
3rd: Manger square, Mosque of Omar in the center
4th: The star that marks the birth site of Jesus
5th: Some of the art on the West Bank side



Nazareth



During our time in the North, Mom and I stopped by Nazareth. I really appreciate all the interesting juxtapositions that can be found, with no effort at all, while exploring Israel. Being the largest Arab city in Israel and one of the holiest Christian cities in the world, I was very interested to see it for myself. Driving into the town was the worst traffic I have experienced in Israel. There was such a high volume of cars and buses on streets that were clearly not made to accommodate the horde of people.

The main draw in Nazareth as a tourist, is the Church of Annunciation. It is built on top of the cave Mary supposedly lived in when Gabriel came to her and announced she was pregnant with the son of God. It was pretty powerful to stand in such a holy church. It was beautifully decorated with stained glass and gifts of artwork from all over the world. Underneath the church are remnants of the ancient city of Nazareth, including a mikvah (ritual Jewish bath). On our way out we stopped at a bakery for some delicious Arab pastries.

Pictures:
1st: A subtle message, Church of Annunciation on the right.
2nd: Outside of the church
3rd: Mary's cave
4th: Shout out for Celeste
5th: Mmmmmmmm. That's a whole lot of goodness I'll be missing in a couple weeks.


Sunday, August 16, 2009

Gadna


Last Sunday, our Ulpan arrived at the Tzalmon army base in the North, around 15 kilometers northwest of the Kinneret (Lake Tiberias). We spent a week in a program called Gadna, which is put on by Zahal (IDF), and functions as a preview to basic training. A lot of Israelis do it when they are 16 or 17. They woke us up early every morning, between 5 and 6:30, to begin our daily tasks of cleaning bathrooms, picking up garbage, classroom lessons, running from place to place while counting down from 20 in Hebrew, and standing around in the blazing sun at attention for indefinite periods of time. Standing still is a very highly valued skill in the army. It's a fun challenge to see how long you can have beads of sweat rolling down your face until one finally tickles you enough to force you to move. Then it's a test to see if you can wipe it away undetected by the commanders so as to avoid doing push-ups. If that fails, the trick is to see if you can manage to do push-ups on a bed of gravel and avoid re-opening any scrapes on your hands that you acquired during any one of the number of activities that included scooting across rocky terrain on your stomach. Fortunately, I only had to do punishment push-ups once, due to an unbuttoned button.

Overall, I thought the experience was great. It was such an interesting perspective of the army that I would never have had the chance to see otherwise. We had some interesting classroom lessons on a variety of topics. The ones I found most interesting were the purity of the weapon, missing soldiers (primarily Gilad Shalit), and learning about M16s. On the last day we got to fire them. I hit the piece of paper with all 11 of the bullets. It was intense to be behind such a powerful weapon. My heart was beating really hard. I have gotten so used to seeing people my age and younger carry them around everywhere and I liked experiencing for myself what it is like to use one.

I also enjoyed the physical competitions. The different teams would have to complete various challenges such as jogging, running lines, push-ups, sit-ups, and army crawls across a field of gravel (that one left our knees scratched and bruised). One day they thought it would make the competition a little more interesting if we did it after dinner, resulting in several people throwing up. The strangest one involved teams racing to open and eat cans of tuna, sardines, and the equivalent of kosher Spam, and drinking a huge gasoline can full of water. It was a sample of the food given to soldiers who go out on missions in the field. Directly after, they gave each team a box of these field rations to eat for lunch, because what you want after eating it all under time pressure, is to have the chance to sit down and really enjoy it. It was all really fun though. I would definitely do the army if I was making Aliyah. For those who are interested, the Israeli army, which most of us know as IDF, Israeli Defense Forces, is called Zahal here, which stands for tzavah hagana l'yisrael, army defense Israel.

Pictures:
1st: One of the buildings on the base (uniform storage) and the hills in the background. The base was in a beautiful area.
2nd: The field of gravel where we spent hours standing around in the sun at Hakshev (attention). The flag raising ceremony took place here every morning.
3rd: Our bad ass 19-year-old mefakedet (commander) leading the way down the hill to the shooting range.
4th: Who likes cleaning bathrooms at night in pajamas? I do!
5th: Kitchen duty day. We washed a lot of dishes that day. We had brief training including the importance of staying out of the dairy sections of the kitchen when you're working a meat meal and being careful not to mix any of the dishes or utensils.

More Gadna Pictures



Pictures:
1st: Sometime around 5:15 am after sleeping outside. We woke up in shifts throughout the night to do guard duty, which consisted of walking around the area in pairs to look for animals or anything suspicious. I had from 3:50 to 4:15.
2nd: Camouflage day! (I'm the top right) We had to use water from our canteens and make mud to put on our faces. Then use any surrounding plant life that looked appealing to make ourselves look more like nature. We also learned how to jump to the ground and protect our heads during grenade explosions. It's important to remember to keep one leg crossed over the other to signal that you're still alive.
3rd: Me shooting an M16
4th: The shooting range
5th: At the end, our mefakedet was allowed to answer questions and converse with us like equals. We were even allowed to call her by her first name. She was one of the sweetest people I've met here.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Body Modification Day! (Parental advisory suggested)



Last weekend, Ilana, Chloe and I went on a little trip.  Through a series of events, we ended up in a little town up North at 8:30 in the morning with nothing to do.  After breakfast, Ilana mentioned that she wanted to speak with a tattoo artist she knew who worked across the street. Chloe asked if today was going to be the day that Ilana got her second tattoo, which she has been thinking about and drawing since we've known her.  Ilana told us, "No no, I just want to talk to him."  About 20 minutes later, it was decided that today was the day.  She had been wanting to do it with us there and the timing was right.  At that point, Chloe, who had been thinking about getting her tongue pierced for a while now, verbalized this idea.  Of course Ilana was all for it, but I told them they were both crazy and that I was definitely not getting anything done.  After Chloe's tongue had been successfully pierced, I began to think about whether I should get my earlobes or my cartilage pierced again.  After we held Ilana's hand throughout the duration of her tattoo, I settled on a second cartilage piercing.  We walked out of the parlor 2 1/2 hours after we walked in and all had a laugh at the strange morning we'd shared.  For lunch we ate ice cream. 

Pictures:
1st:  Chloe nervously contemplates exactly what it would feel like to have a needle through her tongue.
2nd:  Ilana bites herself as the fun begins. Don't worry, it'll be over in just 40 easy minutes of being poked with a needle 100 times per second. 
3rd: Getting there...
4th:  My ear
5th:  Survivors

Mom and Dad- don't watch this.


This is Chloe getting her tongue pierced.  The needle was actually already through, but this is when the guy replaced the needle with the actual stud.  It was a really fast process and Chloe reported feeling no pain, just a strange sensation.  She ate ice cream, yogurt and frozen drinks for the first day and a half, but got used to it really quickly and was back to normal foods.  You'll all be happy to know that she is healing very successfully.  Good on ya, Klo.